Keeping Backyard Ducks

Ducks are one of my absolute weaknesses, I love their sweet little faces. The ladies at our local feed store always chuckle when they see me because they know I have the will power of a bubble in a hurricane and if I even look something fluffy or fuzzy is coming home with me. I know, I'm horrible but honestly ducks are so much fun to keep, and they are so easy to take care of. They are actually super smart and have so much personality!

• Pen  Most domestic ducks are bread heavier than their wild counterparts so they are unable to sustain flight, the ones that can generally stay near food and water. Your ducks will need about 4' of inside space and 10' of yard space. They won't need a completely enclosed shelter (as long as you have a predator-proof pen) as they are very hardy birds, just something to keep them out of the elements and tall enough that they can stretch their wings. If you have a small number of birds a large dog house will work. It will need to be well-ventilated, ducks create lots of moisture when they breath so air flow is important. Cover any ventilation holes with hardware cloth to keep out unwanted critters. Ducks also don't perch so you don't need a roost like you would with chickens. They also can't climb so keep your shelter low to the ground.
  

Ducks aren't super particular about where they lay their eggs, a 16" box will work perfectly.

Because ducks are so hardy, they don't need a heat source in their barn. It can be insolated but doesn't have to be. We found that using a light in the winter helps to keep up egg production. You can use either straw or wood shavings in the barn and run.

• Food  Adult ducks can be fed regular layer feed or sometimes feed stores carry a special feed for them. Full grown ducks eat about 4-6 ounces of food a day (more in the winter). Use a wide bowl that isn't easily tipped to feed them. Wet food should be discarded. 

Ducks will also eat all kinds of scraps and greens, ours love sardines. They also love to forage and look for bugs, but they aren't as hard on your yard. They will also need access to GRIT.

• Water  Ducks don't have to have a big pond (domestic ducks aren't as good swimmers as the wild ones and can easily drown) but they will need access to clean water that they can submerge their whole heads in. Water bowls should be cleaned regularly and sanitized. We use two 5 gallon water bowls for ours. If you want to add a pool to their pen a kids wadding pool is easy to clean and would work great.

• Cleaning Coop Change the bedding in the coop regularly, and remove any bits of wet bedding. You should also sanitize your coop area several times a year. 

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Ducklings For Beginners

Last week Mr. Cottage and I stopped by our local feed store (a very dangerous thing in the spring) to get some stuff for the raised beds we've been working on- and ended up coming home with 3 ducks. I regret absolutely nothing and Mr. Cottage has sworn off taking me to the feed store (just kidding, he's as bad as I am). I admit it, I can't resist their adorable little faces! I just love them. So here we are the proud owners of three baby ducks, two Pekin one Welsh Harlequin.

Ducks have a bit of a bad rap, people accuse them of being messy, loud and smelly, which is true they are all three of those things- but they are so much more too. They also have the most personality of all the birds I've had, their probably my favorite too (shh don't tell the chickens). They are more disease resistant than chickens. They are great foragers and help to cut down on mosquitoes. They are reliable layers, depending on the breed they can lay between 100-300 eggs a year. Their eggs are higher in protein they chicken eggs, and only slightly higher in cholesterol and fat. They are hysterical to watch and super easy to care for.

Ducklings eat the same food as chicks but make sure you buy the nonmedicated feed because ducklings eat WAY more than chicks and they can overdose on the medications. You'll want to find a food that is high in protein to support their fast growth. At around 3 weeks they really begin to grow and you'll want to switch their feed to a lower protein feed (16 -18%) if you can't find a lower protein feed mix in raw oats to replace 25% of the food. Ducklings can't climb so keep their food and water low to the ground.

Related Article: Raising Chicks

Ducklings require a deeper water dish than chicks, they should be able to dip their entire heads under the water. This allows them to clean their bills, eyes, and nostrils. Ducklings can actually get eye infections without the ability to wash out their eyes. They also need the water to properly digest their food.

Ducklings need 2-3 times the amount of niacin than chickens if they are deficient it can cause bowed legs and joint issues. You can supplement their feed with small amounts of brewers yeast, liver, sardines, or salmon.

Duckings don't require heat as long as chickens, start the brooder off at 90 degrees F using a heat lamp or Brinsea EcoGlow Brooder. Decrease the temperature 1 degree a day. By the end of the first week aim for the temperature to be around 83 degrees F. By the end of week two aim for the temperature to be around 76 degrees F. By the end of week three the temperature should be around 69. If you are raising your ducklings inside you are eventually going to reach the temperature of your house, when this happens you can simply turn off the heat light. They will let you know if they get cold when that happens just turn the light back on.

We use a plastic tote as a brooder, or you can get something like this and cover the bottom with shavings.

Ducklings can technically swim at about a week old, swim time should be short 10-15 minutes of supervised time. You can use a painters tray filled with water or a bathtub slightly filled. Our upstairs tub is a shower tub combo with a nice egress that allows them to "swim" but easily take a rest. When their swim time is up, remove them from the water, gently dry them off and return them to the warmth of the brooder. After week 5 they should be ok to swim for longer. Domestic ducks are not great swimmers, unlike their wild counterparts.

By week 3 you can begin introducing them to the great outdoors on warm days (at least 65 degrees F) Make sure they are in a secure pen so no predators can attack them. They can be moved outside permanently anytime after week 4.

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Caring For Chicks

If it isn't evident by now, I love my birds... Actually, at some point (I have absolutely no memory of this) I told my mom that 'Birds were my life'... ok so I may have been just a touch of dramatic there but I do love birds. 

So here is what you need to get you started with chickens.

• A Chicken Waterer (You can pick these up at your local CO-OP of Tractor Supply store. You could also check places like Craigslist for them but if you do choose to bring home a used one make sure you wash it really well so that it doesn't carry any nasty things to your birds.) 
• A chicken feeder (These also can be bought at the CO-OP or Tractor Supply. Same with this one if you decide to buy a used one make sure you wash it really well. Anything that is not bought new I spray down with GSE(Grapefruit Seed Extract) and water or a bleach and water mix.)
• Shavings (DO NOT USE CEDAR SHAVINGS the oils in the chips irritate their lungs) *you only need these if you use a box*
• Heat light or an Ecoglow brooder - The Ecoglow brooder is safer but you can use a light from the local feed store with either a regular light bulb or a heat bulb (I usually just use a normal bulb). You can get the Ecoglow Brooder HERE The Ecoglow is a much safer option. I know many stories of families having their barn burn because of the heat lights.
• Brooder or you can use a tall storage plastic bin with the lid off of it (The last one I use, because I like to keep the chicks close for at least the first week or so, that way they can hear us and be handled a lot. It just seems to make them more friendly than the ones I raised outside the whole time.
• Marbles (these will prevent the chicks from drowning in their water, they tend to be a little wobbly and slightly suicidal).
• And the best part Chicks! - You are going to want to do your homework on which breed of bird you want. Figure out if you want egg layers or meat birds. My favorite breeds are Bahrama, Black Australorp, and Buff Orpington.

To set up for the chicks you are going to want to find a place for your brooder or box (Put it in a place not drafty and where if you have other pets the can't get to them). If you use a box put the shavings in it. This helps their legs to not get injured and is also for the waste. You will need to change this often.


Related Article: Hatching Chickens

Fill your feeder with a chick starter feed and put it in the brooder in a place they can get all the way around it but it is out of the direct heat.

Related Article: Building A Chicken Tractor

Fill the water bottle and put in the box. (again put in a place where they can get all the way around it and where it is out of the direct heat and add the marbles. They need constant access to both food and water at all times.

If you are using a light you are going to want secure it (MAKE SURE IT IS NOT GOING TO FALL) Place it so that the entire box is NOT covered. You want shady parts. Place your little fluff balls into the box but keep an eye on them if they start panting you are going to need to move the light up. Or if they peep really loud you want to lower the light. For the first two weeks, the temperature at the bottom of the brooder should be between 95-100 degrees, then reduced by 5 degrees until the chicks are 1 month old.

If you decide to add more chicks to your flock in the brooder later make sure you do not just drop them into the general population. Introduce them slowly, put them in a place they can see each other but not touch for at least a day. When you do release them with the "cool kids" stick around and make sure they don't get picked on too much - some pecking is normal, resist being "mom" and coming to the rescue unless absolutely necessary, they must figure out where they are in the pecking order.

Keeping Rabbits - Things I Wish I Had Known Before Getting Rabbits

Midnight the 2nd, Jonah, Monarch, Patches, Snowball & Dragonfly  

Over the years we have had quite a few rabbits, and if I really tried I could probably name everyone. Don't believe me? Well, let's see there is Rabbs the 1st (I know very imaginative but hey we were little!), Rabbs the 2nd (ahem), Sugar, Caramel (We had a sweet tooth when we named them), Midnight, Smokey, Shadow, Thumper (like the bunny in Bambi), Monarch, Patches, Midnight the 2 (OK what can I say? Black rabbits just get named Midnight around here), Jonah (it had a wale or a big fish over its eye), Snowball (she was an Albino), Dragonfly (can you guess why she was named that?), Hazel and Bluie (OK for the record it's fur was a bluish tint and I didn't name it),  Told you there were a lot!

Jonah (See the whale/fish?)

Rabbits are ESCAPE ARTISTS!!!! Make sure your cage has plenty of ventilation but that they can't get their heads or feet stuck especially if you have a small baby bunny or a mini rabbit (gee that sounds funny). They are also very fragile, so make sure if you are buying a bunny for the kiddos have an adult around just to ensure they don't get smashed. Their backs are very easily broken, they can even break it themselves if they are flipping around. So be careful with them, they are adorable yes but treat with care.

Bluie

Be careful not to feed them veggies or fruit, trust me it's cute to watch them eat it but it will save you a lot of heartbreak and save their lives. They are very susceptible to diarrhea so stick with alfalfa pellets.

Rabbs the 2nd, Caramel & Sugar 

Water bottles with a special spout fastened to the outside of the cage. Make sure the rabbit has water at all times. They dehydrate very fast and get overheated easily. Especially on hot summer days.

Shadow

Rabbits are active little things and yes if left to their own devices they can get into trouble. We always bought chew toys for ours so they could grind down their teeth while playing. They also liked a cardboard box (We cut a door out of it so they could go in and out).

Midnight, Patches, Shadow, Hazel

Rabbits can be litter box trained like a cat. Rabbits are super smart and are trained for this very easily. I had all five of our babies trained in just under a week. 

Patches

Shadow

Hazel

Hazel & Brianna

Have you ever owned rabbits? What were their names? What kind were they? 

Leave us a message in the comments below.  

Do you have a question about them? We love to hear from you. :)

#advicefromthecottage #Farm #Rabbits #Bunnies #homestead 

How To Build A Chicken Feeder With Mr. Cottage

Building a PVC chicken feeder was quite easy.  Depending on what size you want to make you need the following.

Shopping List: 

1 PVC Pipe

1 PVC "Y" Connector

2 couplers This has threads on one side.

2 Caps

PVC glue

Hacksaw. 

Now you need to know the height of your run or how tall you want it in your barn or coup.
Our run is about 4' tall and we have it there in the run so that you do not have to open it to feed the girls. In hindsight, I wish I would have put it in the coup because the rain gets into the part with the food.  Next time I will do this instead. I would make it at a comfortable height for you to pour the grain in it.

I made several so I used full-length tubes, but they also come in 4' sections.  So take your hacksaw and cut the pipe.  Put glue on the outside of the pipe and inside the smooth side of your coupler.

Related Article: Building A Chicken Tractor

Insert the tube inside the coupler.  This is now the top used to pour in the chicken feed.   Screw on the cap to keep out the rain from the top of your feeder.  Turn over your pipe and apply glue.  Put the glue also on the top side of the "y" connector and insert the pipe.  You are now almost done!  Take the tube and turn upside down and add glue to the bottom of the "y" connector and also on the 2nd coupler, put them together and screw on the cap.  Now you wait for the glue to dry.  When it is dry flip it right side up and strap onto your coup or your chicken run.  Then you are ready to fill it with your chicken feed.  Make sure you keep the lid on to keep out the moisture and keep your feed fresh.

Related Article: Raising Chicks

This is a self-feeding feeder, as the birds eat the food comes down the pipe and into the "Y" connector for the chickens to eat freely.  Just refill as it gets low.
The girls love it!!!

 I love it and recommend it!  Now if you will excuse me, I am back to my breakfast.